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Start of the Not VinItaly Tour

Vigneti Campanino Rosso dell'Acero


Grape: Sangiovese

I stumbled on this writing by Matt Mollo about Campanino and I'm just going to use it because I can't do any better.  

"Campanino is little more then a collection of around half a dozen tiny vineyard plots scattered around the crest of a mountain ridge high in the central Apennines of southern Umbria.  But here, high on these steep, rugged plots of land the Terroir speaks loudest.  The winemaking is ancestral, rudimentary and completely unfettered. Guided by a winemaker I can only describe as the Yoda of Italian natural wine, Danilo Marcucci, the land and wine can barely be contained in each bottle.  The 'winery' is simply a cement refuge high on the mountain overlooking the plots.  It's mostly empty, spare a few cement tanks, glass demijohns and some old barrels.  The winemaking is as stark as the place, yet this is where it becomes courageous."

the Acero is a single vineyard plot that is just a small group of vines under one huge old maple tree.  Yes, this is vineyard is defined by a maple tree.  As such it's tiny and they only made 54 cases of it.  The grapes don't always ripen so it's not made every year.  It's 100% Sangiovese but I've never had a Sangiovese so elegant, light, racy, and aromatic before.

Aroma: Roses, tart raspberry, cranberries, sun dried tomatoes, cooking bacon, kim chee....this is a very powerfully aromatic red wine.  The aromas are intensely wild and all over the place with flowers and spicy food flavors all at once.  The roses and raspberry seem to be the most dominant and make it a compellingly beautiful aroma, but it's exciting and intriguing because there are so many other smells hiding in there.  

Palate: lush and electric at the same time.  The Acero has some volatile acidity that gives it a zing, but the texture and finish are so smooth!  There aren't really any tannins to speak of; the wine is so supple and elegant and light on it's feet that I think I'd peg this as a beautiful older cool climate burgundy if I was blind tasting it.  The fruit is very vibrant and a lovely fresh raspberry strawberry cherry combination.  The mid palate and finish has some earthier flavors lingering.  Think strawberry seeds and sesame, but the mid palate and finish also have a beautiful fatness to them: a silky smooth touch that fills our palate oh so gently.  This wine is just flat out crazy.  Every mouth full is slightly different from the previous but each is so vivid and compelling and sexy!  The more I drink it the more it seems to be morphing into something like a beautifully mature Santenay or Volnay.  Gad damn this is good.


That's the last glass form the bottle, so it's particularly cloudy, but yes this is obviously not a filtered or fined wine.


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