Jean Pierre Robinot Natural Wine in Jasnieres
03/23/2012
Tuesday the 20th and we went by Jean Pierre Robinot's in Jasnieres. I liked this place from the moment Laurent and I drove up and there were old empty bottles and an over grown computer monitor lying around out front of the wine making shed. Robinot's looked like a real functioning farm with all the debris that goes along with it; it felt similar in a way to some of the small super passionate farms I've visited in Maine. Jean Pierre has built a reputation as alternately an eccentric, a maniac, or a genius depending on who you talk to. He previously owned a bistro wine bar in Paris that highlighted natural wines, but eventually sold it to buy the hills he had been eyeing for vineyards since a boy. He sold the bistro around the end of the century when the property he wanted came up for sale, bought it as well as the surrounding woods, and set about planting from scratch. Jean Pierre's partner Noella was on hand to show us around as Jean Pierre was off at a wine show in Italy.
Noella and I outside the winery
We walked back through a tiny tasting room/office/kitchen and stepped down into a long, low, semi lit cave. Noella first pulled a sparkling Chenin that had just been disgorged a few says ago. It was young; tight and angular, not really together yet. That was followed by a Chenin and Pineau d'Aunis rose blend that had been in bottle a while longer and was a bit more refined, a bit more elegant. Then we launched into their many cuvees and vintages of Chenin.
First was a 2007 that had spent 48 months in acacia barrels. They had not done one thing to it in those 48 months. No sulfur, no fining, no filtration, no switching it to another barrel, they hadn't even stirred it. After 48 months of tasting it every now and again Jean Pierre decided it should be bottled. So it was. That's how he works; seemingly totally on his senses and instinct by being constantly in the vineyards and tasting the wines as they age. The wine was definitely young and angular to me, and very foreign from what I'm used to. It was distinctly lemony, flowery as well as floury, and had a slightly spicy oxidative quality that reminded me of Vin Jaune or sherry.
Second a 2009 Chenin that had spent just 12 months in barrel. This was more focused and earthy with a hint of petrol, also almonds. this was made to be drunk younger and I think Noella said it was called Bistrology. She felt it would improve with some more time to rest in bottle.
The third wine changed direction. Where the first two were made from vines Jean Pierre Robinot had planted himself, this (called Charmes) was from a 60 year old plot of Chenin Jean Pierre had purchased in Jasnieres. This 2008 vintage Chenin was riper and rounder with a rich, long finish that made Laurent open his eyes and exhale in surprise. The big, generous palate was a mix of baked lemon pannacota and nuts with a hint of sherry like spice. The finish changed the tone though with a more focused chalky quality that lingered and lingered.
An eroded hillside at jean Pierre Robinot's showing all the Tuffeau rock
Fourth was the Cuvee Juliette from 2006. Juliette is the name of Jean Pierre's daughter and is the flagship cuvee; only 1-2 barrels are made and that just in excellent vintages. This was a prettier wine with wild flowers and something reminiscent of dry cider on the nose. This again tasted younger-like it wasn't quite integrated yet, but had intriguingly pleasurable flavors of cooked ginger and aromas of Cinnamon that were beginning to develop. The mid palate was a bit shut down-lacking the richness and dynamism of the front and finish, making me think this could use more time.
At this point my feet were dead and vaguely painful from the cold seeping out of the stone floor and my hands were stiffening. There was no refrigeration, of course, just the natural temperature of the cave, but I could see our breath and it felt colder than any wine cellar I had been in. Noella explained that sometimes barrels of wine take 5-6 years to finish fermenting. That's pretty crazy in the wine world; but the extremely cold temperature of the cellar must slow everything down.
Laurent and Noella walking down to the cave.
Thankfully for my feet at this point we walked back out and into another room that was completely dominated by a couple upright wine tanks. Noella cracked the spigot on one and poured us a sample of the 2011 Concerto, a Pineau d'Aunis. I will never view Pineau d'Aunis the same and have a new found respect for it. The musky, spicy, animaly aroma that hit my nose was an instant turn on; I'm not going into specifics, but believe me, it was a very pleasurable aroma in an intensely private and kind of dirty way. That aroma was heady and pretty persistent; I could smell it while holding the glass at my waist, but on the palate the wine had more bright vivid young cranberry and cherry fruit. As the wine was exposed to air and warmed the aroma turned more floral rose and violet over it's animal quality and added a hint of black olive. This was fantastic in a totally unexpected way.
The Concerto was followed by the 2010 Regard, another Pineau d'Aunis that had already spent some time in barrel and then been racked back to the tank. This was markedly different from the Concerto. It was richer, darker, and less aromatically racy; but had more developed fruit. More concentrated midsummer strawberries, seeds and all.
This had already been more involved than any other winery I'd experienced thus far. We walked outside. I thought we were done. No! we were just walking across the road to the other cave.
First off Noella opened a lovely older sparkling Chenin & Pineau d'Aunis rose. I think it was about 90% Chenin and just 10% Pineau d'Aunis. The color was extremely pale, as you'd expect, but refined and reserved. Finely balanced and with very small bubbles and smooth effervescence. It was a lovely floral wine that just seemed inappropriate for the cave so I took it outside into the sunny ivy surrounded entry.
From there we tasted a series of older Chenin that were all in various stages of development and ranged from very young to starting to come together. Then Noella pulled an older Pineau d'Aunis that she said was Jean Pierre Robinot's flagship red. I think it was a 2006. This was nothing like either Laurent or I expected. It was a completely ripe, lush red with great finesse, totally integrated tannins, and fresh and vibrant fruit. I would have placed this as a Pinot Noir if I didn't know better. A rustic Pinot Noir, but a rustic Burgundian Pinot with serious concentration and potential.
These wines aren't for everyone. Most weren't really ready to drink according to Noella but it seemed like they've made great progress over the past few years. Jean Pierre Robinot's wines may not be things you can just open and drink with a light meal while hanging out with friends. These are very demanding and complex wines that challenge your palate and require attention. And they made me question my palate and my preferences. I was impressed and I think the wines are worth the interest and buzz; particularly as they start to mature and Robinot gains more experience. Regardless of whether you personally like them you have to respect Jena Pierre Robinot and Noella for their commitment and faith. They gave up everything in Paris, planted this vineyard, built a winery, and have devoted years of their lives to making wines that still aren't really ready to drink.
I bought some for myself personally and will try to get them into maine simply for my own satisfaction. I really loved them and it's the least I can do in return for Jean Pierre's massive personal commitment and faith.
Ned, I hope you can bring some of these into Maine instead of just torturing me with descriptions. They sound fascinating.
Posted by: Bob Rossi | 03/23/2012 at 05:25 AM
I'm definitely going to try. I'll send an email right now.
Posted by: ned | 03/23/2012 at 05:37 PM