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Jurtschitsch Mon Blanc

I've been working with the Jurtschitsch winery for nearly a year now and I've been pretty excited about their wines, but this new arrival is one of the best wines I've tasted in the last 4 months.  Mon Blanc is kind of sort of an experiment to see what full on biodynamics can in their particular climate.  This is a blend of Gruner, Riesling, Weissburgunder, and Muskateller - all from the Loiserberg vineyard.  This spends ten days on skins in open top red wine fermenters. The juice then goes into 600 L oak barrels. The wine is unfined and unfiltered. the Jurtschitschs use 10g of sulfur at bottling and only made 500 cases.  10 of those cases came into Maine.

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Here's a quick introduction to the winery.  Jurtschitsch is the oldest winery in the Kamptal region of Austria; they date back to the 1500s.  In 2006 Alwin took over from his uncles.  He and his wife Stefanie Hasselback (from a famous German wine making family) prepared for the handover by interning at wineries they respected around the world.  When they finally took the reigns they were very prepared and brought passion and a modern perspective on low intervention farming/wine making.  They've focused the wines they produce on on expressing the varied character of their vineyards (they own 62 ha) and they've adopted a holistic minimal intervention wine making style.   They've conducted a lot of serious experiments with different organic and biodynamic methods: coming to the conclusion that the conversion to organic farming was essential both for quality and ethically. their determination is impressive to read about, and then you taste the wines!  

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The Wine:

Aroma:  While I wouldn't call this an aromatic wine on terms with a full Gewurz or Moscato, this has a lot of white wild flowers and is really pretty.  The aroma is beautiful and forceful with fresh apple and cantaloupe to it as well.  It's a really lovely lingering intriguing aroma that gets your attention in the best way.

Same deal on the palate.  I love this.  I would date this wine.  There's that fresh ripe but edgy fruit with energetic acidity and some salt, but also a grounded foundation of mouth feel from the little bit of skin contact this gets.  It's not enough to be in your face and this is absolutely not an "orange wine" but it just sort of changes the personality and makes this deeper, thoughtful, contemplative; all those nice things.  It makes me think of springtime some how.  I guess it's the freshness and flower aromas all together.  It tastes very "clean"  

This is excellent and really exactly what I want to drink right now.  That's cool, that doesn't happen too often.

You can find it at Maine and Loire, Store Ampersand, Blue Hill Wine Shop, Now You're Cooking, and Havana in Bar Harbor

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